December 29, 2008

Christmas at Sampson Cay

A belated Merry Christmas to all listeners. We spent the past week in one place, although we did move the boat to re-anchor twice, once to get in closer to shore and a second time to allow a fuel ship to make its turn in 30 knots of wind. We did not plan on being in Sampson Cay for the week but a combination of a strong cold front early in the week bringing strong winds for 5 days and very strong winds for two days as well as our desire to be in a place with a Christmas celebration all conspired to keep us in one place. And not a bad place at all. Sampson is a private cay with a resort and marina. They had the attendant bar, beaches, walking trails and many many sharks hanging out around the fish cleaning station. The resort also put on a nice Christmas buffet that was well attended.

With the winds dying down we have moved a few miles to the Pipe Creek area for some exploring and snorkeling among a patch work of small cays.

A couple of miscellaneous stories. Isabelle decided this week she wanted to try her mask and snorkel while we were at the beach. So we put it on and she was walking around in the water sticking her head in the water. Jake decided to provide a snorkeling lesson and while coaching her through the process put his hand on the back of her head and held her under. Isabelle did not seem to mind. Low and behold as we explored various coral reefs around Sampson Cay, Isabelle got in the water with her mask and snorkel and took off. Must have been the teacher.

On a separate and unrelated note. On Christmas Eve, Warderick Wells arranged to have Santa call on the VHF radio. We signed Jake and Isabelle up. So at 8:00 pm Santa calls them on the radio. Jake almost came out of his skin with excitement, racing up into the cockpit to try to see him. Santa asked where he was at and if he left his anchor light on. Jake answered his questions at a million miles an hour. Great fun.

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December 22, 2008

Exumas Part 4

After leaving Staniel Cay we moved back north to Warderick Wells where we met up with our friends on Free@Last. We moved around to the southern anchorage at Warderick Wells, which was a former pirate lair, a great sheltered and hidden little cove with small beaches and good snorkeling. After a couple of days we moved south a few miles to Belle Island. During the trip down we had three dolphins playing in our bow wake, racing the boat, jumping out of the water and generally frolicking along as we sailed on a close reach at 7 knots, great fun. Rae Ann noted that even though it was a bit rough nobody noticed because we watched the dolphins for nearly the entire trip.

At Belle Island we anchored off the west coast and used it as a base to explore the many snorkeling sites. The best being the Sea Aquarium off the north coast of O'Briens Cay, which had all kinds of fish, from sleeping nurse sharks, cow fish, lion fish and great coral. Everyone from both boats was able to get in the water, as current was negligible and winds were light.

We anchored about 500 yards apart in Belle Island. Isabelle decided that she wanted to swim to Jack's boat (Jack is a three year old boy on Free@Last). So we got in the water, and with a helpful current, Isabelle swam unaided all the way to Jack's boat and was very proud of herself.

Jake is now snorkeling very well and likes it tremendously. It is now our only way of getting through to him - e.g. misbehave he looses snorkeling privileges for the day. Jake went our with myself and the crew from Solange IV for a spear fishing expedition. We went to some rocks that were pretty exposed so swell, wind and current and were in the water for about 45 minutes. Jake stayed in for about 30 minutes of it, swam around staying close - and in his words spotting the fish we should spear - including a fairly large barracuda. Needless to say I did not follow his advice.

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December 14, 2008

Exumas Part 3

We spent a total of 7 days in Warderick Wells, going to the beach, swimming and snorkeling every day. We then departed for Staniel Cay, about a 20 nm run to the SE. We will go back up to the north to check out some other spots, but for the moment the need to acquire some fresh provisions and propane took precedence. We have anchored just west of Big Majors Spot, not far off of Pig Beach. You ask, "why is it called Pig Beach?". Well the answer is that they have pigs on the beach. Not really sure how they got there, other than they were originally domestically kept and later were turned wild. As you dinghy up to the beach they come scampering out of the shrubs down the beach and right into the water. Obviously, very use to being fed. The look quite piggish. We were debating with another boat in the anchorage about the right and wrongs of spear fishing pig.

Enough of that. Near our anchorage is Thunderball Grotto, made famous by the James Bond movie. We went over to there at low slack tide and the four of us snorkeled into the grotto, with basically a heads room of clearance. The roof has several holes which sunlight streams through illuminating the varied coral and fish. The kids enjoyed all but the very aggressive fish, again used to being fed, come right up to you in schools, brushing you and nibbling at finger tips.

We took our late afternoon drink and food at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, which carries much history and has great charm and atmosphere.

Now that we are out of the Exuma Park, I will begin my spear fishing efforts with due seriousness. That is if I can get the dinghy to stop leaking air.....

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December 11, 2008

Exumas Part 2 - Warderick Wells

We sailed south about 20 miles from Highborne to Warderick Wells, which is the headquarters for the Exumas Land and Sea Park. The Park was established in 1958, the first of its kind. It is a no take zone so fishing, conching, shelling etc are out. The park is absolutely beautiful with great snorkeling, sand beaches, hiking, kayaking and just scenery to wear the eyes out. Jake has been working hard on his snorkeling and is progressing much faster than we expected, given his aversion to getting his face wet. He is now floating with his mask in and breathing through the snorkel. He gets very excited about the fish he sees so he comes up talking and sucks in water, then begins to sputter. He is very proud though of his new skill and goes about it whenever he can. He took anchor watch of our dinghy anchor at the beach yesterday, in all of 6 inches of water, he floated there making sure the anchor stayed put for about 15 minutes.

We have had a fair amount of wind, which is good (keeps the batteries charged via the wind generator) but also keeps us a little pinned down. Though admittedly we would not have moved anyway. There are no services (groceries, stores, laundry or even garbage collection) in the park. So we are very much "cruising" and loving it.

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December 07, 2008

Exumas Part 1

Foreshadowing a long stay in the beautiful Exumas, this is part 1. We left Nassau on Wednesday, with much less than perfect weather - high winds and fairly bumpy seas, but coming from the NE and we were traveling SE, so ultimately everyone hung on and we had a fast 4 hour sail. The principal issue on this route is crossing the Yellow Banks, which have many coral heads, some of which are shallow enough (6 feet or less at low water) to cause problems. We timed our route so that we hit the Yellow Banks at high tide, we also diverted to the west of the banks to hopefully see less coral heads. The plan worked out very well, we never saw less than 14 feet of water, while Rae Ann took bow watch and directed us around the three coral heads that we came across. They are very easy to see as they stand out black against the brilliant white sand bottom.

Our hasty departure from Nassau was two fold, one the weather was going to be the same for the next few days and we did not want to be stuck so to speak. The second issue is that we had heard that Nassau was a bit dangerous, well frankly other than not having any sidewalks to duck the traffic we did not see this, mostly just friendly people going about their business. However, on Monday as the wind was howling through the marina I was helping others to dock their boats along with one other gentleman. He told me his story. Had left his boat at the marina for a trip back to London. Upon his return, everything was stolen - food, clothes everything. He said that he also caught people trying to break into another boat just a couple days ago. He said "you do lock yourself in at night?"

Well this is a bit difficult for us because we cannot lock our companionway from the inside. Anyway I was unnerved enough to lock everything down on the boat, then lock the companionway, then crawl through a hatch into the boat. By the way I am certain this is why Nassau gets such a bad rap, I relay the same story that everybody else does from the same person, and suddenly there is a rumor of 10 plus thefts......

We arrived at Highborne Cay, anchoring off the west coast. We spent 4 days snorkeling (Jake is starting to get the hang of it but tends not to breath through his snorkel quote "it is just like when I jump in, daddy, I freeze my whole body up") and beach playing. I tried out my new spear, successfully, definitely more to my style than fishing which has always been to passive for me. The thrill of floating over the fish until it ignores you, making a quick quiet decent and the letting go with the spear is quite fun. Of course you quickly look for sharks chasing the blood trail. We also went over to Allans Cay to see the iguanas, which came out in droves once we came close to the beach, obviously used to being fed.

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December 01, 2008

Atlantis

We left the Berry Islands on Saturday morning, running ahead of a cold front. While this meant 10-15 knot head winds, the seas had not yet picked up in the Tongue of the Ocean, so the crossing while involving more motoring than desirable, was pleasant enough and we arrived in Nassau mid afternoon.

The Berry Islands are very remote with small populations. They form a backwards L with the interior of the L all shallow sand, quite a large area actually as they run 60 miles top to bottom, with a 12 mile lower leg. Access is very difficult, we were using high tides to get in and out of anchorages. We found some nice snorkeling and a great beach area for shells, conch and starfish. The kids had a great time picking up the conch and starfish to move them below the low tide line. The only disappointment was that we checked in at Chub Cay, finding out that the landing fee was $100 not the $25 noted in the guide book. Explains why so many people had skipped the Berry's and went straight to Nassau to check in.

We decided to splurge and stay at Atlantis Marina. The upside is that you get full access to all the facilities. The downside is that everything at the resort is very expensive - for example $3 for a 12 oz coke, not to mention of course the morrage costs. Though in my assessment it was well worth it. We did not exhaust all of the activities. The many aquariums where outstanding with all kinds of different fish, sharks, rays... (note that you cannot access these any longer without staying at the Atlantis Marina, which is different than we had been advised, but it was clear that one had to present ID that your were staying in the resort to get into the rec areas, same as for water park areas). We also spent alot of time in the water park, which includes water slides, several pools, and river rides. The kids had a great time as did us adults.

We will now wait in Nassau until we get a little better weather to head down to the Exumas.

November 27, 2008

6 Months In

We said we would assess our adventure at each critical juncture, which also happens to be every 6 months. Our 6 month anniversary was two days before going to the Bahamas, without question a critical juncture as the degree of difficulty jumps fairly significantly. Tellingly we did not even have the conversation. We are thoroughly enjoying the adventure and the lifestyle and think of nothing but continuing.

Looking back I think the largest surprise has been the equipment breakdowns, something we did not expect with a new boat. However overcoming these has sometimes leant to the enjoyment but also helped us to understand all of the systems on our boat better. I have also been surprised by the way the kids have adapted to the boat as "home". They have adapted to the much smaller space and differing rules (life jackets for example)quite easily. I commented to Rae Ann that the kids seem quite happy to spend a couple of days just playing in their cabin, and she pointed out that this was no different than any "real home" for them in that a couple of days playing and staying inside is quite plausible. I still view the boat as something to get off as soon as possible once in port.

Rae and I agree that Maine has been our favorite stop in the first 6 months, closely followed by the Chesapeake, though for quite different reasons. Maine had the type of somewhat isolated destinations, with hiking and beach combing that we like. While the Chesapeake gave us the opportunity to visit some great places (D.C., Baltimore, Annapolis, Williamsburg).

We did not enjoy the intra coastal waterway (ICW)due to the constantly shallow waters, though we had some interesting stops, just difficult moving about. Total groundings was 4 in the ICW for us, though in all instances we were going slow and could back off, ultimately finding deeper water.

I have a much deeper respect for those who voyage at sea in small boats. We had a very rough passage from Beaufort N.C. to Georgetown S.C., particularly once we had rounded Cape Fear. We were in 20-25 knots of wind (forecast) and 6-8 foot seas (forecast to be smaller) fortunately all from astern. However, it was enough to make the whole crew in varying degrees seasick as well as instill a sense of profound loneliness on my part during the night hours. We did set our speed record at 10.4 knots though surfing one of the larger waves. I might note that the wind and sea state above is not considered very problematic. Lets say we are now a little more careful about forecasts looking for that magic 10-15 knots and 3-5 foot seas that seem to agree to all. We wonder though what it will be like when we have no choice as we will on longer passages (greater than 3 days) if we are forced to face even rougher conditions.

Last note, we have sailed 2,500 nautical miles, about average for a cruising boat.

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Happy Thanksgiving

Checking in from Chub Key in the Berry Islands. We crossed the Gulf Stream, a notoriously difficult body of water, on Tuesday morning. The forecast was for variable winds and small seas. We definitely got no winds, but the seas were very lumpy and confused, residual from 3-4 days of high E-NE winds. We headed for a point about 12 miles south of our intended landing on the Banks, which worked nearly perfectly as the 3.5 knot current was not quite that strong to the north, thus we were able to come to our planned arrival point with no need to buck the stream. We crossed onto the banks about 2:00 pm and continued on motoring in light winds until 4:30, at which time we anchored on the Great Bahamas Bank in about 15 feet of water. No land in sight, and a light roll from the ocean. We took a nice swim, cooked dinner and fell into a nice sleep. We awoke at 5:00 am and continued on the Banks, picking up wind about two hours later allowing us to sail the remainder of the way on a beam reach to Chub Cay, where we checked in.

Chub Cay, is lightly inhabited, as are most of the Berry Islands. There is a posh resort under construction with a marina, that provides clearance services. Reportedly these services were $25, but we were charged along with another boat, $100 per boat. A little rich, but if we did not pay, we would have had to go on to Nassau and miss the Berry Islands altogether, which we did not want to do. We will spend the next couple of days exploring the Berry Islands and decide Saturday whether to run ahead of an approaching cold front to Nassau or to wait it out in the Berry's.

Hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving.

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November 25, 2008

Bahama's Baby

We are currently underway crossing the Grand Bahama Bank, having crossed the Gulf Stream early today. An uneventful day though lumpy in the Gulf Stream. We are going to anchor tonight on the Banks and then sail to Chub Cay of the Berry Islands to officially check in to the Bahamas. I can confirm the water is clear - we see the bottom as we sail over it, the weather is warm (80 degrees) and we are all smiling.

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November 22, 2008

Miami

We departed the Cape Canaveral area for an overnight run down to Palm Beach where we waited on weather for our next leg to Miami. The Palm Beach area was a little disappointing because you get off your boat/dinghy right at US #1 so a very busy highway, and an area where one needs a car to get much of anything done. We did find a Turtle sanctuary where they were taking injured sea turtles and bringing them back to health. They had several turtles undergoing treatment including a large loggerhead. They also had several hatchlings waiting for release. We got our weather window Thursday and continued offshore overnight to Miami. We are staying in Coconut Grove and will see friends over the weekend. We are finishing our last bit of provisioning and boat projects with all eyes on the Bahamas. The weather looks good for a crossing Tuesday or so next week, we are very excited.

So a rather mundane week. The sailing though has been very good. We have had NW winds with 2-5 foot seas. We have been going south to southeast so had everything on the stern. With 8-14 knots of wind we have been able to make anywhere between 6 knots and 8 knots, by keeping the wind closer to the beam and jibing a couple of times. The crew has felt good, and by concentrating our passages in the overnight ours the kids sleep allowing mom and dad a more relaxed sailing. A very interesting contrast to three days of motoring in the ICW last week. We can sense our level of experience and confidence building the more we get out there.

Hope to be writing from the Bahamas next week!

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November 16, 2008

Forts & Space Shuttles

We left the St. Mary's & Cumberland Island area early this week after our friends on s/v Free@Last caught up with us. The kids (they have a 3 year old boy) have had a great time playing together for the week. We had southerly winds for the week, so we elected to stay in the ICW and ultimately motor south, trying to get to Titusville by Friday so we could see the planned space shuttle launch. This would mean three very hard days of motoring. Fortunately the ICW in Florida is much straighter with much more reliable depths than the Carolinas or Georgia, so other than many many many bridges to negotiate it was relatively easy. We only went aground once trying to get into an anchorage at Daytona Beach, but were going slowly so able to back off quickly and find deeper water in. Along the way we stopped in St. Augustine taking a self guided 4 hour sprint tour of the oldest settlement in the U.S., enjoying the Castillo de San Marcos the most as the kids had the run of the place especially the cannon battery for shooting at the sailboats in the harbor.

We made it to Titusville on Friday, along with several other boats. There were camps set up in the town for the land going types to come out and watch. Very festive, with much anticipation about whether the shuttle would go off or not. The locals assured us that the launch was a go. We spent the evening on Free@Last having a little to much to drink. We worried that we would not know where exactly it would take off from and thus miss the early part of the launch. As we were chatting and drinking, Rae Ann looked at her watch and said "hey guys its 7:53", launch was in two minutes, we hustled to get cameras and turn on the radio just as T-45 seconds was given. Then the sky lit up like a sunrise, I get goose bumps even writing this. The rumble could be felt aboard the boats some 10 miles away. The shuttle was visible for about 10 minutes, you could see the drop of the booster rockets, and then follow it into space as a very bright star. To say we all feel very lucky to get to witness something so spectacular is a huge understatement. Isabelle woke the next morning wanting to see another shuttle "pulease".

We head off down the coast, our last major hop south, on the back of northerlies today/Monday, and then begin looking for the weather window to cross to the Bahamas.

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November 09, 2008

Happy Birthday Isabelle

We had a very nice 5 day weather window starting Wednesday afternoon to sail from Beaufort S.C. Preparations were made to sail to the Abacos in the Bahamas. I tried a weather service, Commanders, to assist in the passage planning as the expected transit time was 4 days, by far the longest we had ever undertaken. Commanders issued their report on Tuesday, confirming our view about the weather window, but noting a low pressure disturbance in the Caribbean to by wary of before crossing to the Bahamas, which was something that other weather reports were not covering.

We departed as planned Wednesday afternoon and had one of our best offshore passages, with wind aft of the beam at 5-10 knots. We flow our spinnaker throughout able to maintain about 6 knots average speed. During my middle of the night watch (1-3 am - Rae and I go two hours on 2 off) I down loaded the weather reports. The disturbance had organized into a tropical storm and was expected to strengthen to a hurricane, which it ultimately did becoming Paloma. The forecasted track included the Bahamas. We decided to abort our attempt to make the Bahamas as our likely arrival on Saturday was only two days ahead of the forecasted arrival of Paloma. We elected to come in at St. Mary's anchoring at Cumberland Island GA.

As we went ashore Thursday afternoon on Cumberland, Rae and I looked at each other and said - well this is pretty darn close to the Bahamas. Cumberland is a national park protected from development as a gift from the Carnegie family. There are several trails along the island, almost all sand, with oak,palm trees, Spanish moss, armadillos, wild horses, turtles and many different birds. The beach side facing the Atlantic is a beautiful powdery sand. We had not been in such a setting since Maine and it was very enjoyable.

We left Cumberland for a short trip up the St. Marys river to the town of St. Marys. A small village really with a nice park and waterfront area and another nice secure anchorage.

Beaufort S.C. was fun, the downtown area being almost entirely on the national historic register, was populated with many antebellum homes, absolutely stunning. There was no doubt you were in the south, with confederate flags lining the graves in the cemeteries and pace that was just a little slower and more enjoyable.

Isabelle turned 3 today. She is a budding princess, so I worry about the day she discovers I am not a king and therefore her anticipated lineage is not to be. Fun age though still innocent but understanding just a bit more each day.

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November 02, 2008

Georgetown - an ode to equipment

Well we spent a very nice week in Georgetown S.C., unintentionally. The day that we arrived from Beaufort N.C. our inverter/charger broke down. While not a critical piece of equipment it was still under warranty so we decided to take the pain. After some tests we sent it in, the turn around diagnosis, was quick - need a new one, but the new one took 4 days to arrive coming in only at 5 pm Friday night. We did get it installed and were able to catch some very nice weather on Saturday to sail south to Beaufort S.C.

This jump offshore went much better than the previous, winds were from the ENE at 10-15 knots and the waves were about 4 ft in swell. Using a combination of winged genoa, spinnaker and ultimately for the overnight ran downwind jibing the main/genoa. A much happier crew, although the kids for the fun of it I guess elected to sleep on the floor of the salon again.

Georgetown for a place to be stuck for a week, was excellent. A nice small town feel with a restored water front district. They did a very nice Halloween party for kids as well with a large turn out.

We will spend this week poking about Beaufort, S.C., Hilton Head and Savannah. Ultimately with a good weather window we will jump down offshore again, either to Florida, or possibly to the Bahamas.

An Ode to Equipment - well one is fully versed in the latest saga, however, those dedicated readers will note that there was only one untested system, the water maker. While 3 weeks ago I gave it a shot. It leaked. Bad. The brine discharge which carries all of the waste non-potable water overboard from the water maker, which is a considerable quantity. The brine discharge hose is connected to a plastic fitting which is threaded and screwed into the metal housing of the water maker. When I noticed the leak, I let the water maker shut down, then tried to tighten it, with barely laying my hand on it, it came off entirely. Apparently during installation it had been over tightened and the plastic threads torn. Now laying in front of me was the inspection report from Hallberg Rassy stating that the unit ran without problems... hmm ... now I know from experience that when you strip threads as happened here - the actor knows it, therefore I can only suspect/conclude that the person doing the installation and the inspector chose to ignore this problem at Hallberg Rassy.

Now the fix was problematic. The unit is in the bilge and the connection is at the bottom of the unit. The threads were torn about a 1/8 inch inside the housing - so decision time - disassemble the unit, get a replacement fitting, back out the torn threads or 5200 (for non-boaters this is glue that is full proof but very permanent). I slept on it, got up and with a masters hand applied a bead of 5200, held the fitting in place for 30 minutes and got a perfect set, works very well. This is a low pressure outlet so the risk in the above approach was just getting a bad set that leaked anyway but was now firmly glued.

I guess we are shaking everything down........

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October 26, 2008

A Week of Too Much Wind

We left you, dear reader, last at Ocracoke Island, famous for its beheading of Blackbeard. We ultimately staid longer than planned, as a strong low pressure system developed just off the N.C. coast bringing wind speeds as high as 40 knots over a two day period along of course with plenty of rain. We tested our series anchor system again, chaining a fortress to the crown of our delta and then laying out 200 feet of rode (chain + snubber). The anchorage was well protected from waves but the strong and shifting winds were no picnic, the anchoring system, however, held perfectly.

From Ocracoke we sailed on the tail end of the strong winds down to the Neuse river and from there on to Beaufort N.C.. Beaufort was a neat town, with a nice waterfront and easy access to the necessities of cruising (laundry, groceries, beer). A little expensive on moorage but we wanted dock access as we thought we had a nice window to head offshore to Charleston S.C.

We left about 18 hours after arriving Beaufort bound for the Atlantic and we thought would be a sleigh ride south in 15-20 knot winds from the north. What we got was anywhere between 10 - 30 knots, but most ofter 25, and out of the ENE, especially after rounding Cape Fear. The waves were 6 foot plus with a 2 foot swell, so when on our quarter gave us speeds up t0 10.6 knots in a surf down the front of them, but as we rounded Cape Fear they waves became much more confused and more directly on our stern. Along with the wind shift we were suddenly sailing dead down wind, rolling from gunwale to gunwale. Needless to say seasickness became the name of the game taking its largest toll on Jake. No one on the crew felt 100%. As we got close to Winyah bay, an alternative to Charleston harbour the winds were picking up towards 30 knots. The decision was close because we were sailing so fast we arrived at the Winyah channel at 5:20 am so would have to run it in the dark. The channel is a class A, meaning that it is all weather, deep draft commercial channel. The buoys were all lighted and the channel easy to run so ultimately a good decision to come in early and short of our destination. We then came up to Georgetown S.C., a great small town and waterfront, which is a good thing...

In Georgetown we discovered that our charger/inverter had quick working. After a few hours of poking around with a multimeter the answer, as it is with almost all marine electronics now, is to ship it to the manufacturer. Debating this for a few hours we elected to do it immediately, thus we are now stuck in Georgetown until the unit is returned to us, which we hope is only 3-5 days.

Jake's 5th birthday is on Monday the 27th and of course we have Halloween, so plenty to keep us busy while we wait. One last note, we are staying at the Boat Shed Marina, which has been great with us, so if you cruise this way yourself do not hesitate to give them your business.

October 18, 2008

ICW Week 1 - NO The Other Green Buoy

Do you see the green buoy off of our port bow? asks Rae Ann, "yes I do" is my reply..... Dave the depth is decreasing WE ARE DOWN TO 4 FEET!!! says Rae Ann. "Oh s..t the other green buoy", followed by a hard turn to starboard, a lucky and generous wind gust filling the genoa, while already sailing 7 knots and we were back in the channel. Yes we draw 6 foot 7 inches so we were considerably aground, however because of our speed under sail and the lucky wind gust combined with a very soupy mud bottom we were able to turn to deeper water with almost no loss of speed much less any real impact. Better to be lucky....

The ICW from Norfolk VA to Beaufort NC has several land cuts and channels through shallow sounds. The incident above happened in the North Landing River, where the channel is 100 feet wide and 12 feet deep, though sometimes much shallower. However just outside the channel depths are 1 or 2 feet so the margin for error is very small. Nerve racking to say the least. The depths generally have improved a little farther south so getting a little easier.

We visited several different ports of call, Great Bridge (free dock), Coinjock (a way station on a canal in the ICW), Buck Island (open but peaceful anchorage, Belhaven (a nice anchorage but a struggling town with 8 of 10 store fronts shuttered) and finally Ocracoke, which is on the outer banks a bit of the way off the ICW. Ocracoke is where Blackbeard was captured and beheaded, has great beaches and generally a marvelous atmosphere ashore. With some nasty weather forecast we are happy to be stuck here for a few days poking around.

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October 13, 2008

Colonial Virginia

We left Deltaville and headed south ultimately sailing 10 miles up the York river and anchoring in Sarah Creek just across the river from Yorktown. From there we rented a car and spent two days visiting Yorktown, Jamestown and Williamsburg, with Williamsburg being our favorite. All, though, were very interesting and well balanced for kids and adults, with good museum quality exhibits mixed with hands on displays like carving canoes, which Jake really enjoyed. Williamsburg has been kept in essentially colonial "condition", although most of the buildings have been rebuilt. There are no cars, just horse and buggy or walking. We ended our very fun day there in a tavern hosting a Gambol, which consisted of a light fare, peanuts, games, live music and a magician - notably ample beer!. Fun was had by all.

As payment on all the fun above we had one long anchoring adventure in Sarah Creek. Although noted as a "good" anchorage, we had a very difficult time getting our Delta anchor to set, at one point using two anchors in series to calm the nerves while we were away from the boat. The anchorage was also small so we needed to reposition for the wind shifts throughout the week.

Lastly, we entered Sarah Creek at high tide, seeing on 7 foot spot (we draw 6 foot, 7 inches) attributing this to being pushed out of the channel by an exiting sailboat. However, upon further inquiry we came to understand that the entrance is only 6 foot at low tide not the 8+ feet our chart suggests. I went out then in the dinghy to sound the entrance finding the lowest and highest spots at low water. Armed with this intelligence we left on the 7:00 am high tide on Saturday, following the winding path with nary an incident.

October 06, 2008

It Stinks Here

We anchored in the Reedville area, known for its menhaden industry (a fish, I think the spelling is correct). The anchorage was a typical Chesapeake anchorage; shallow creek, mud bottom with good holding, well protected from wind and wave. We went to sleep under a beautiful starry sky. We awoke at 6:00 am, Rae Ann says "why does it smell like dog food?", well the winds had shifted to easterly and were blowing the aerial discharge of the fish processing plant right over our anchorage - so plans to hang out a couple of days became a mad rush to sail farther down the bay.

Backing up a bit. We left Annapolis and sailed to the eastern side of the bay, visiting St. Micheal's for a couple of days. A very nice town famous for its resistance to the British during the battle for independence, its most notable landmark being a still standing house that took a cannon ball through its roof that rolled down the stairs and out the front door. Today the house is aptly named "Cannon Ball House" least anyone be confused.

After St. Micheal's it was the aforementioned Reedville thus leading a speedy departure to Solomons Island. Solomons is a boating mecca a great stop. From Solomons we found are way to Deltaville, yet another boating mecca and where we hang out currently. We are meeting more and more cruisers as everyone begins to funnel towards the ICW ahead of any possibility of cold weather.

September 30, 2008

The Baltimore Washington D.C. Corridor

We have spent the last week and half visiting Baltimore, Annapolis and Washington D.C., the latter by car. Baltimore was a neat stop as one is able to anchor right in the middle of downtown as the channel dead ends there. We visited the National Aquarium there, enjoying the Amazon exhibit which took us back to our days in Brazil. We then proceeded to Annapolis, with a short stop in the Magothy river. Annapolis is truly a boaters dream. It is part college town due to the Naval Academy, meaning lots of places to eat and drink, combined with a huge selection of marine services. While we were in Annapolis we rented a car and drove to Washington D.C. for two days, taking in the Natural History and Air and Space Museum and walking all of the Mall as well as to the White House. I attempted to lend my counsel as to the since failed 700 billion bail out plan, but was rebuffed at the gates.

It has been a bit surreal to watch from afar as the financial debacle unfolds, afar simply because we cannot get access to updated information as often, so we can go several days which can seem like a lifetime in the current fast moving environment. We have also been lucky with one of our banks, Washington Mutual, in the middle of it all, but thankfully rescued.

We are enjoying the Chesapeake, although it is a little shallow so we are constantly on watch when going in and our of the various harbors. We will probably spend another two weeks or so in the bay before going to the ICW.

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September 20, 2008

Things that Work or Do Not

During our trip back to Washington State we had some work done on Nikita, the big item was getting the autopilot to work correctly. The autopilot would turn off and on at random intervals. I need to back up though. We had been dealing with two systems that were giving us fits, firs the SSB and second the Autopilot. Both of these systems were not working when we took delivery of the boat. However, upon advise of the contracted electronics firm (the same one that installed the wrong size regulator on our DuoGen and caused the fire! and yet remains nameless) we were assured that both were working fine.....

After two months of trying everything on the SSB, calling Icom, calling Hallberg Rassy, we finally found a gentleman (owner of Elco Electronics in Boston) to come and look at the SSB - 20 minutes later after switching the SSB and DSC antennas we had a working SSB, he was embarrassed at the ease of the solution and charged us a nominal fee. If in the Boston area with need of electronics work please send your business to Elco. Now one could argue I should have been able to discern the same problem.... or well anyway this was a big deal as the SSB is our primary communications tool, including sending this blog update via email.

With the Autopilot we were able to work around the issue using other control methods, but still was annoying. The yard in Stamford was asked to look at the issue and discovered a fluctuating current at the autopilot controller, after shipping to Raymarine and having it reinstalled it works perfectly and nice relief.

So while knocking on lots of wood, crossing fingers and praying I am not putting a jinx .... I think we have everything working as intended. I guess that was the whole point of a shakedown cruise over the summer, I would just have preferred the shake down without any problems!

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Catching Up from the Sassafras

We left Nikita in Stamford, previously a home for us for about 3 years, while we traveled back to Washington State to visit family. It was enjoyable to be around our families again, especially watching the kids interact with their cousins. We experienced quite a bit of luck, missing Hannah which blew through while we were gone, seemingly doing very little damage but I am sure would have created much anxiety had we been on the boat.

On our return to Stamford we were greeted by Nikita still on the hard without all of the commissioned work done yet. So we had one night sleeping on the boat on the hard and spent the following day hustling the yard staff to complete the work. We then had a nice weather window for Wednesday that would close Thursday for a few days. So we headed out and sailed 215 km (29 hour trip) to the mid point on the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. The trip was a mixed bag; the trip down through NY was fun, seeing all the sights from the water, we got smacked with some steep waves leaving the harbor and had about 5 gallons of water pour in through open hatches (lessons.....lessons), were under motor most of the night down the NJ coast, a bit tedious, caught some nice winds early in the morning, and then got a royal pounding going up the Delaware bay with 3-5 foot seas, direct into the wind and current pushing us. We did get the currents right at each juncture which was a big benefit. After a quick respite at the Summit North Marina in the C&D canal we headed down the Chesapeake and are currently anchored in the Sassafras river. We will spend most of the next month poking around the Chesapeake before heading down the Inter Coastal Water Way (ICW).

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August 24, 2008

Block Island

We have been in Block Island for the past two weeks. Block is one of our favorite stops, we used it as a vacation destination when we lived in Stamford CT. We have been able to anchor in New Harbor, and although deep very good holding in mud. The weather has been nothing short of brilliant, allowing us to hit the beach several times, bike around the island and generally enjoy summer and warm water. We have also used these past two weeks to establish our intended daily routine, with "household" chores in the morning, which normally consist of lugging water, one or two boat projects, laundry and cleaning. We follow this with home schooling for Jake. After taking lunch we then head out for an afternoon of play.

We also got our fishing equipment set up (a big thanks to my friends and colleagues at Bunge). Though we have not really "fished" yet, we have played around. The kids enjoy using small nets to catch the thousands of jelly fish. So now we wait for offshore waters south of NJ to see what fish we can land.

We have also been witness to several interesting anchoring techniques, all vessel names withheld to protect the innocent. The first event was a raft of three boats that were on one anchor. The captains and crews were all on shore when a strong thunderstorm came through. While the winds were not that strong, the first gust popped their anchor out and off they drifted through the entire anchorage, apparently only hitting one other boat on their way through. The local Sea Tow and Harbor master corralled them and took them across the channel to a mooring ball. After the storm dissipated the captains returned with chagrined looks and ultimately open pocket books for the Sea Tow boat.

The second event was a soft grounding in the entrance channel, ok not really an anchoring issue, but near low tide there is a sand bar that extends into the SW portion of the channel, catching the keel of a sailboat, where they waited for three hours for a little additional water. This by the way was the same spot we bumped over in May on the way in.

The third included yours truly in the happenings. A sailboat anchored rather close to us and one other boat, using all rope rode, while we and the other boat where on all chain, or chain/rope combination. The winds were extremely light to non-existent. First the new boat started drifting randomly towards the "other" boat. The "new" boat then turned on their motor to drive away, but did not move anchor. We found this amusing as they immediately started drifting back towards the "other" boat once the engine was off, which frankly should have been of no surprise. Eventually, we retired for the evening as did the winds completely. At 6:00 am I woke as normal, opened my eyes to see a sailboat mast (Rae and I sleep in the forward cabin) directly overhead on our port side. I get up and make my way to the cockpit while mentioning the situation to Rae Ann. Rae wastes no time and jumps through the forward hatch on to deck to push "new" boat gently away from her nestled position against our bow. "New" boat of course glides right back to us, but by then I have reached the bow and give "new" boat a mighty push. At around 7 am "new" boat has drifted back close enough that our loud (assisted by children now) conversation about their wanderings wakes them. They were a crew of two, man and woman, with an interesting dynamic. The woman was extremely loud and rude, repeatedly telling the man to "shut up, I am trying to drive" or "shut up I am trying to pull up anchor", all the while the man tried to follow orders but seemingly had never been on a boat before. All very entertaining, and no damage to our boat so all in the name of fun and games.

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August 10, 2008

Boston

After leaving Isles of Shoals we sailed south to the Boston area where we met Dave's parents. We spent two weeks exploring the area via boat and car seeing Gloucester, Salem, Marblehead and Plymouth in addition to several trips into Boston. We kept the boat at Hingham Shipyard for the majority of the time - a very good marina with great management. The kids greatly enjoyed the grandparents electing to stay with them at their hotel every other night, which mom and dad where very happy to sacrifice these evenings.

From Boston we started heading south again, aiming for Block Island for a longer stay this time around to enjoy the great beaches and generally fun boating atmosphere. After we exited the south end of Cape Cod Canal we had 15 knot SE winds and were sailing along at 8 knots. We elected to push onto Block Island, though are arrival would be about midnight. We have been in the harbor several times so were comfortable with both the entrance and finding anchoring room. About 9pm we received a report of very strong thunderstorms right in our path. We decided to divert to Newport arriving there at 11 pm and missing all but the edge of the storms. We then left early the following morning to make Block Island. And now... we swim and enjoy the beach and warm waters for a while.

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August 05, 2008

Isles of Shoals

Departing Sebasco we moved SW through Casco bay to Jewel Island. Jewel has been a rumored pirate hangout and a sub lookout during WWII. The only thing we could confirm is the WWII part. Jewel Island is a part of the state park network for Maine. We anchored for 3 days taking advantage of the many different trails and beaches. We explored the military installations, the lookouts were easy, the underground bunkers. Unnerving especially with fading flashlights. We drug anchor for the first time, though at 7:30 in the morning as we were drinking coffee in the cockpit. This was simultaneous with two other boats. As the anchorage was packed and is very small everyone used very little scope on their rode so just a high tide (tide ranges are 10 feet) with a strong wind and some waves and presto our anchor broke out.

We then did a drive by of Portland harbor, rounded Cape Elizabeth and sailed to Isles of Shoals. These islands are about 7 miles off the coast and the city of Portsmouth, NH. They have a long history including a sighting/landing by John Smith (he named them the Smithys after himself but lost out in the naming game eventually). The islands were a very successful cod finishing outpost for many years. There was also a discovery of a pirate treasure of four silver bars there, which paid for the construction of the first breakwater for the harbor. Also rumored to be where Edward Teach, aka Blackbeard, left his young bride. Among the notable events; 1) Betty Moody’s cave where she fled with her two infant children to escape an attack by Indians only to slaughter them to keep them from crying and giving away their location with their crying and 2) a double ax murder of 2 women by allegedly a former employee, who in the middle of winter rowed from the mainland killed the two women and rowed back, all during the night. The testimony of the one surviving women resulted in the conviction and execution of the “murderer”. A great book by Anita Shreeve, the Weight of Water, retells the story. All of this happens, by the way, on 7 islands, each of which can be walked entirely in about 30 – 45 minutes.

On our last night in the Isles of Shoals we got hit by a massive thunderstorm. The harbor is untenable unless on mooring, which we were as were the many other boats there excepting one. I am guessing but think the winds were as high as 50 knots at the peak. All of the boats including ours were swinging wildly around the anchorage with rain gushing down and whitecaps on 4 foot waves. The boat that was anchored drug onto the rocks as did one boat on a mooring, both saved themselves though by motoring off quickly. We kept our engine on as I am sure everyone did, just in case. This was about 7:00 pm, lasted no more than 45 minutes, then the sun came back out, everyone was a little wetter and out to BBQ their dinner. These thunderstorms, though not nearly as violent have followed us all the way down the coast since.

July 23, 2008

The Outliers

We left Camden with a decided turn towards the southwest and Boston to a rendezvous with family at the end of July. The moment is bittersweet as we are working toward leaving Maine, a place we have truly enjoyed cruising while looking forward to family holiday in Boston, yet another city we have never been too.

The weather has been very settled with a nice SW flow generating 5-10 knot winds. While these are all headwinds for us going back down the coast, the upside was the ability to visit some of the more remote islands of Maine. We started with a stop in Muscle pass at Home Harbor, then on to Matinicus, from there Monhegan. Both Matinicus and Monhegan have about 40 year round residents, with Matinicus being the farthest offshore inhabited island in Maine. The islands have developed quite differently though with Matinicus clinging to a fishery economy while Monhegan has embraced tourism.

Matinicus lacks for even a store and although there was a Post Office on our trip to shore we noted it was completely burned down. Other than a provision for moorings in the rather tight and rocky harbor there are very few facilities. Landing by dinghy was against the wharf requiring all to scramble up a 10 foot ladder. We hiked to the south of the island seeing our first sand beach in Maine, which we had all to ourselves even though this was Sunday on the 4th of July weekend.

Monhegan has several more services, though not necessarily for the cruising sailor. They welcome 5-6 tourist boats a day and cater to them with shops and restaurants. Hiking Monhegan took us to an old tug boat wreck along a very rocky coast which Jake had a blast climbing. Both islands were beautiful, remote and rewarding. We were lucky to have settled weather allowing us to anchor at these rather exposed islands and take in all they had to offer.

From Monhegan we worked our way into the Boothbay harbor region and into Sheepscot bay picking our way among offshore and tight inter-island passages to make way in the headwinds. From Sheepscot we took a nice pasting trying to round Cape Small putting Jake over the lee rail green with seasickness. Nikita was found in Sebasco Harbor Resort where 2 days of a salt water swimming pool and lobster feasts allowed the captain to recover credibility with the crew.

With Sebasco we enter Casco bay, the last of Maine’s great sailing regions, which ends in Portland. Weather permitting we will spend the next week exploring Casco before heading for Boston via the Isle of Shoals.

July 12, 2008

Quick Notes on Blog

Just a couple of quick house keeping items. Due to our very sporadic access to the Internet we post when we can, however, we are almost guaranteed to have very slow access when we do have access. As a result we have done a few things; 1) photos are all in links on the right hand side bar - they do require a separate log-in to snapfish but once you have set this up you can easily get in 2) we appreciate all the comments left here on the site, please continue, but note that we usually cannot respond because of slow Internet access.

July 11, 2008

Camden

The week up to and through the 4th of July we departed Isle au Haut eventually reaching Camden by the holiday. We left Isle au Haut on a very foggy morning sailing NNE through the Merchant Island chain up to Eggemoggin reach eventually stopping in Bucks Harbor. Our radar and chart plotter worked well during the trip, though it was unnerving to see a intra-island car ferry turn from a purple smudge on our radar screen into a live moving object only 100 yards off our bow before we could see it.

Bucks Harbor was outstanding, packed to the gills with boats, but very scenic with great services. We pushed on the following day to Isleboro Island, mooring eventually at the Warren Island state park. We spent two days there hiking the trails and having camp fires and cookouts in the evenings, to which the kids very much enjoyed.

Our last stop during the week was Camden, which has a marvelous harbor. Many of the cruise schooners leave from here as well, which adds an even more nautical air. There is a park right at the head of the harbor that held a free concert during the weekend that we all enjoyed. For the 4th, while the fire works were a bit disappointing, we celebrated with a lobster dinner and way too much wine. By the end of the evening the kids had lobster claws doing god knows what with them while mom and dad let chaos reign. We were handed our check without further inquiry as to further dining needs.

We snagged our first and hopefully last lobster pot while sailing in Eggemoggin reach. It was a float and toggle and I mistakenly sailed in between rather than around. The attaching line wrapped our rudder and hung in the bottom most “hinge”. After trying to pull it out resulting in a bent boat pole, I had the pleasure of going in the water and yes the water is still 56 degrees. I warned Rae Ann that the policy is for whoever is at the helm at the time of the snag to go in to correct matters.

What it Takes

I have put together a quick summary of “what it takes” to cruise. Now to be fair this is really a 2 month snapshot and things will change as we gather experience and cruise different locals. I will then update at later points to track how we “evolve”.

Water – This has, and maybe should be expected, become our most delicate resource to manage. We have 120 gallons of storage plus 15 gallons in three jugs. We are using about 15 gallons per day, sometimes a shade less. So we have just under 10 days of usage. Usages are daily drinking, our primary beverage is water, daily dish washing, showers every second day, laundry once per week in a hand crank machine, occasionally rinsing from swimming in the salt water (been too cold in Maine to make this a habit).

Compare that to the average onshore usage of 70 gallons per day/per person and our usage is pretty good. I expect as we get to warmer waters we will use more for the rinsing of salt water but should get some offset from less need for showers.

To get water on board we either go alongside a pier or use the water jugs and ferry back and forth with the dinghy.

We have not started to use our water maker yet, which is a maintenance and longevity issue. We plan on starting to use it once readily available sources of water are not available, e.g. the Bahamas.

Electricity – We have thus far used much less than I expected. In harbor we are using about 50 amps per day, much less than the 150 amps anticipated, though 50 amps of this is as a result of not running the water maker. While underway we use much more, which as I will explain later is a non-issue. The 50 amps is largely refrigeration followed by diesel heating, lights and then radios (vhf in particular for weather reports). With 350 amps of usable battery bank (700 amps total) this gives us 7 days between charging. As we progress to warmer climes the heater will not be used but the refrigeration will run more, probably a direct offset. The energy efficient lights, which include a led powered anchor light are very efficient. The least efficient is our HP lap top, a real power hog.

The Duogen, once past the regulator issues, has worked very well. While underway we use nearly 11 amps to power all of our electronics (instruments, chart plotter, radar, radio and auto pilot). The Duogen in water mode offsets all of this providing for essentially energy neutral sailing.

While at anchor, with 10 knots of wind the Duogen provides about 25 amps during the day. At 15 knots of wind it will net charge our batteries offsetting the 50 amps we are using. We, for obvious reasons, try to anchor in quite places so we tend to get the 25 amps or less, however, the offset is highly appreciated.

Finally, with our high output alternator (rated 120 amps), by motoring in and out of port/anchoring, we put back much of what was used during a reasonable port stay and keep the batteries topped up.

All and all our electricity system seems to be very well balanced if not surplus.

Fuels – We have three types of fuel on the boat, diesel for the boat’s main engine, gasoline for the outboard engine on the dinghy and propane for cooking. While we have not filled the boat yet in the two months I estimate we are using about 1/gallon per hour in our boats main engine. Given the superb sailing characteristics of the boat our engine use is limited to port maneuvering and very light/no wind days. With 120 gallons of storage we go along way. Given the price of fuel, we are pleased.

We have a 5 hp Honda 4 stroke outboard with a 3 gallon tank. We use the dinghy A LOT, as a primary mode of in port transportation ashore, for the kids to play in and to ferry supplies from shore to the big boat. The 3 gallon tank will last about 2 weeks.

Lastly we carry 20 pounds of propane in two 10 pound tanks. We use about 10 pounds per month, at about $10/refill. We cook most meals aboard so usage is relatively high.

Money – Always a delicate subject, because everyone will tell you that you spend what you have. More pragmatically the cost of cruising is dependent upon two big factors 1) where you cruise and 2) personal choices about anchoring verses fee based moorage and eating out verses cooking on the boat. The east coast of the U.S. is expensive from a cruising perspective, especially because during the summer season demand outstrips supply so there are hefty premiums for all boating related activities. There is also an issue in finding anchorage room so one gets forced into paying for moorage quite frequently. We have always preferred anchoring and cooking our own food so those personal choices were obvious. We are getting better at anchoring/finding tucked away spots so hope to bring down moorage costs. So far we have spent a little more than $2,000/ month, which is less than we expected of $3,000/month. This excludes any charge for the payment on the “boat”. Our monthly expenditures are in-line with others’ experience.

Beer – One of best ways to limit water consumption is to drink beer. I have read many cruisers note that one needs to consume at least 2 quarts of water per day. I say consume this in beer and save the water. Counter arguments are that beer is not a replacement for water, to which I say double your beer consumption then. Sadly, Rae Ann has struggled to keep Nikita properly provisioned in this manner. In Camden I found a T-Shirt that read “Out of Beer” – “Life is Crap”. I now wear this in protest.

Last thing you need a boat too.

July 05, 2008

Isle au Haut

After leaving Blue Hill Bay we made our way south to the “Merchant Row” islands, stopping at Camp Island, Stonington and Isle au Haut, where we spent a number of days. There are literally a hundred islands in an area no more than 6 miles by 6 miles, to weave between, anchor behind and explore. While most are privately owned and thus limited in access, the few areas that are public, like Acadia National Park on Isle au Haut are truly magnificent.

We experienced our first “fogger” day(s), defined in Maine (really a term that is used officially by the national weather service) as fog thick enough to reduce visibility to well less than one mile. The worst, “fogget” we have thankfully not yet seen, where one is not able to see the bow of the boat. Cheating heavily using chart plotter and radar, we were able to navigate rather smoothly (knock on wood) , though still unnerving to see a radar blob tract towards you and appear no more than 500 yards away for the first time as an inter-island ferry.

We were able to get some hiking in while on Isle au Haut. Rae Ann was attacked by a 9 inch (length) by 1/16 inch (diameter) green snake. Only quick thinking on my part saved her, although I could not save her leg. Isabelle took her first swimming lesson… after a particularly frustrating dinghy trip of trying to keep both kids in the dinghy, I tied it off to the back of the boat and got up on deck. Both kids elected to stay in the dinghy (life jackets were of course on), which I was more than happy to allow. About 5 minutes later we heard Jake say “oh no Isabelle” I went to the back deck to see her in the water. I fished her out and still get credit from Isabelle for “saving her”.

Blue Hill Bay

We have spent the past week exploring Blue Hill Bay, taking in various anchorages never farther than about 15 miles apart. Blue Hill bay is a bit off the beaten track, but has been perfect with weather a little less than ideal for gunk holing and exploring. We have taken the dinghy up Union River about 6 miles and through the intricate Blue Hill harbor.

The sailing has been very good, using SSE winds of about 10 knots we have been able to close reach and broad reach from anchorage to anchorage. The waters are very deep and relatively speaking problem free. Nice gooey mud for the anchor as well.

The seal population up the bay is rather fantastic, they hang out on the ledges in the afternoon and sun bath. In the mornings and early evenings they will cruise around, particularly if the tide is running and snatch in a few fish. In the Union River we saw about 10 seals, one in a group of 4 cruising together.

It looks like we have high pressure moving into the area towards mid next week, which hopefully will bring a touch warmer temperatures and a little less clouds/rain. We expect to move out of Blue Hill bay and begin exploring the Merchant island “group” down to Isle Au Haut over the next week.

Begging for bad karma now… seems the dinghy has been repaired. The third patch, on which I used 5200 seems to be holding very well. Now on to the SSB which in speaking with Icom seems to have problems working with the tuner. I guess by the end of 2 years everything will be working.

June 17, 2008

Maine and the Economy

Maine, at least the coastal part we are cruising, has a fair amount of summer vacationers and much independent fishing (mostly for lobster) as the pillars to their economy. The impact first of high fuel prices has pinched the local fishing fleet, and although we have no comparison, those that do say that the actually number of lobster traps in the water is way below normal because of this. While a little early in the summer season, the mooring balls and marinas are sparsely populated suggesting the pinch is being felt for the summer set as well.

Provincetown to Maine

At 12:30 am Thursday morning Rae wakes me to inform me that our radar is indicating an object within 2 nm of us and that she can hear the blow hole of a whale – she wants to know what to do? The wised captain of many a sea voyage, gets up, turns off the radar alert function, advises to not hit the whale and goes back to sleep.

200 nm and 30 hours (our personal longest single sailing leg to date) brought us to Mt. Desert, Maine. Along the way we had 10 separate whale sightings, one seal, one bald eagle and some very beautiful country. Our first trip to Maine, and although we had very high expectations based upon what we had heard and read, those expectations have been far surpassed. The country is very rugged, rather unspoiled and populated by very nice people. We hit a glorious three days of sunshine so we got in some hiking, canoeing and general exploring. Now we get a better taste of Maine weather with some rain and fog for a few days.

We left Provincetown on Wednesday morning arriving Thursday afternoon in Mt. Desert. For the most part we were able to sail, although with the shifting winds we had several sail changes to make it work. The seas were rather calm with the occasional North Atlantic roller lifting under us to remind us we were walking the edge of coastal and ocean sailing. The kids did great, spending the entire day Wednesday whale spotting with us and then taking their normal night time, awaking Thursday morning with not a complaint. Probably repeating past posts but Nikita is a nice sailing boat and that certainly helps keep the crew happy as we roll along with a nice turn of speed and comfortable footing.

We will spend the better part of the next six weeks exploring the Maine cost moving back southwest before meeting my parents in Boston at the end of July.

June 10, 2008

Provincetown

A quick trip into South Dartmouth and some very excellent service by the team there had our Duogen regulation issue resolved. I spent an afternoon sanding and refinishing all of the wood areas burned by the fire, not new looking but in much better shape.
 
After a couple of days we sailed to Onset which is just west of Cape Cod Canal, from there on to Provincetown through the canal. The canal transit was easy and interesting. The sail through cape cod bay was spinnaker weather with flat seas. Provincetown is very interesting, as the first landing spot of the Mayflower, retains much history. There is a considerable fishing fleet in the harbor as well. Weather has been ideal with enough sun to make even the 60 degree water feel warm enough.
 
Rae Ann has adopted the nickname "Cookie" so designated as her current employ has become short order cook for the crew. I have become "Mr. Fixy" as I go from one problem to the next, this week is is a leaky dinghy.
 
Weather permitting we are going to Maine this week which will be about a 30 hour sail.


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June 01, 2008

Nantucket & Fire

From Block Island we sailed onto Cuttyhunk another of our favorite destinations and also the furthers “down east” we have sailed. Cuttyhunk has about 50 year round residents and some more summer residents and as one of the only accessible islands in the Elizabeth chain gets a fair amount of cruising traffic. The following morning we set sail for Martha’s Vineyard, but having caught the currents (by design I might add) which gave us a 2kn boost and taking advantage of following winds and seas we saw 10kn sog, everyone feeling well, we kept on a truckin’ all the way to Nantucket.

Nantucket is a former whaling capital of the U.S. turned now to a summer retreat for wealthy New Englanders. A stunningly beautiful island with a great waterfront, sandy long beaches and only the Atlantic Ocean to sea. Navigating to and fro can be quite challenging as one needs good clear weather to navigate the many shoals in the area. The weather has been fitful alternating between gales and near calms. We have rented bikes to tour the island and go to the Atlantic side beaches. The only disappointing part has been that the former anchorage has been filled in with mooring balls, a recurring theme we find, thus one is stuck paying $40/night for a mooring ball or anchoring in a usually remote, poor holding and shallow part of the basin, which is unattractive in an area of high winds, shifting directions and strong currents, like Nantucket.

Writing the next part I must state that I am still numb, the possible outcomes are almost always catastrophic on a boat due to the amount of flammable material. Why we were so lucky and what it means is still out of reach to me. The first night we were in Nantucket the winds picked up to 20-25 knots. I had deployed the wind generator on arrival and although the regulator was acting a little funny in the early evening, by 11:30pm all seemed find and we were getting a healthy charge from the wind generator. At about 12:30 I smelled the unmistakable smell of burning “something” I was also awakened by the change in sound. I could not hear the wind generator any longer. Rushing up on deck, I took down the wind generator, then flew to the aft cabin, where the kids were sleeping. Rae Ann was awake by now and back there with me. We moved the kids to the forward cabin and opened the port aft bunk finding that the wind generator regulator had completed melted down, burning the wood bulkhead where it was attached. Over the next 24 hours, I cleaned up the mess, cut away the burnt wires and removed what was left of the regulator (very little). Several phone calls later and digging through the debris the cause was identified as the regulator which was rated for 10 amps, while the wind generator is rated to go as high as 25 amps. Speaking with the company that installed the generator and regulator they accepted responsibility, stating they thought that they had installed a 25 amp regulator. The only markings on the regulator were on the back of the equipment which was screwed against the bulkhead, therefore un-accessible unless one took the wiring installation apart. The damage for the moment seems to be burnt wood and electrical wiring, although we still need to test the wind generator but suspect the built in rectifiers saved it. Of all the possible outcomes from a fire on a boat of this nature it is hard to imagine anything better. Of all the possible reasons for a fire, well this makes me want to do physical violence.

We will be making our way Buzzards Bay in the coming week to affect repairs.

Cutting the Lines

Well they are nice dock lines so we just untied them. After much early week hustling to get the remainder of our critical item departure list checked off (no such thing as ever having complete the list), we headed out. We stopped first at Fishers island to stage for tides to make the run to Block Island. We spent the balance of the week in Block, a favorite haunt of ours from sailing vacations past. Neat feel though as one gets a little ocean roll in Block Island Sound on the way across. Very early season so an un-crowded anchorage… for good reason though as the weather remains a little cold. We also enjoyed another grounding, this time on the way into Block Island Great Salt Pond, the channel had clearly filled in from the starboard side, so as we sailed through this narrow cut we felt a slight bump and then back into deep water. By the end of the weekend the coast guard had remarked the channel farther to port as I sure we were not the only ones.

The sailing has been great with winds 15kn or higher and directionally keeps us running downwind to the NE. We have had some bouts of sea sickness, Rae Ann has overcome it by taking Sturgeon and has seen a notable difference. With the kids, they vary between not feeling well and then sitting in the cabin watching a video for 2 hours is very lumpy seas, go figure.

Short & Sweet

A very un-nautical week 3 saw Dave go back to Switzerland and Rae Ann with kids in tow spend a few days with friends. The saga of the water heater continued when it started to randomly leak again on Monday through the same fitting. After some part hunting another repair attempt was made. Given I am writing this two weeks later, this time everything seems to be fine. All and all good to see friends and colleagues and finally get one problem resolved.

May 11, 2008

Christening


Week 2 ..... saw the christening of Nikita in more than just the traditional way; a bump on the dock, a minor grounding, a dinghy painter entangled in the prop and whole lot of great sailing. We took the boat out for 4 days this week, ducking back into Essex for a rather large storm over the weekend, to test as many systems as possible. The first leg was down to the Thimble Islands nice 12 knots of wind on a close reach with 6-7 knots of boat speed. The second day we came back up the sound too Sag Harbour (after grounding in Coecles) in 5-10 knots of wind flying the spinnaker and getting 4-6 knots of boat speed. We took Wednesday to enjoy the Sag Harbour area, returning Thursday to Essex in 20-30 knots of wind reefed down and flying at 8 knots. In the end we got to see our boat in several different wind and wave situations and are very happy with how she performed, very stable and very fast. Cannot say enough good things about the spinnaker, something we did not carry on our previous boat, makes for great light down wind sailing.

The lesson was clearly stay away from port. As we left Essex on Monday I turned to early backing out of the Marina and was set onto a nearby dock by the current, small scratches to the topsides - annoying.

On our attempt to enter Coecles, notoriously difficult with a shifting sandbar, we saw progressively lesser depths, less than expected, so attempted to exit stage right... up onto a sand bar. First rule of thumb when you go aground is to get your dinghy tied up tight to the boat, instead we went into reverse and sucked the painter into the prop. I dove into the 50F degree water to untangle it; fortunately we had noticed our mistake so it was a quick job. We put up the mainsail to heel the boat, gave it some gas and off we went. A quick swim the following day confirmed just a wee bit of paint left on the sand in Coecles. By the way I do not recommend the water this time of year for anything other than polar bears. Jake is now designated keel dive boy.

On Friday, we noticed that our water pump was cycling even though we were not using any of the taps. A quick look in the bilge confirmed more water than was there last. After a quick search the hot water heater was determined the culprit.. in the engine room.. on the other side of the engine. So with my svelte frame in and over I went. The heater element is threaded into the water heater snugged down on a rubber gasket which was torn. I replaced it Saturday morning and water leak is fixed.

We seem to be christened.

May 05, 2008

The First Week


We have been in Essex, CT for exactly one week now, and what a week it has been. We arrived to two days of torrential rains and a self imposed deadline of one week to get all of our gear and provisions on board. Nikita was in great shape riding high in the water, after about 3,000 pounds of gear, supplies, spare parts, tools, 2 extra anchors, 3 additional anchor rodes, five sails, a drogue, outboard engines.... she still rides smartly above her water line. Almost as impressive as the amount of "stuff" she accepted into her multiple lockers with yet much room to spare. So after a truly busy week of starting at 3 am and ending at 10 pm each day we settled onto the boat on Friday taking a short sail on Saturday as per the picture above.
In the coming week we will do additional systems testing including a 3 day outing early in the week, taking advantage of a favorable weather pattern, to various points in Long Island sound, refreshing our sailing and anchoring skills.
The first impression, well about what was expected, a little stressful and more than a bit disorienting as I adjust to no job, the kids adjust to time zones and a whole host of new rules like life jackets; in short much change.

April 20, 2008

Maiden Voyage

On Thursday the 17th, the sails were hung for the first time. Up went the fully battened main and the 135 Genoa. The Genoa is very large, if fact the simple observation, everything on this boat is big, much bigger than our HR34 and well just a little intimidating.
We, John, Brian and myself, moved the boat from Essex to Mystic, CT as she is to be used in a weekend boat show. The first real spring day in the tri-state area with temps in the 70's, gorgeous sunny day. As one would expect the wind was on the nose, however, as we rounded Bartlets reef we were about 35 degrees off the wind of 11 knots. We rolled out the sails..... and flew along at 7 knots with 15 degrees of heel (ok a little current to help as well). Absolutely glorious.
Everything seemed to work, with the normal teething pains like needing a shorter winch handle to operate the in mast furling. The AIS worked a little too well, as apparently it was mis-programed to indicate we were a 700 foot freighter. The USCG was not pleased and supposedly diverted a plane and sent out a boat to check us out (part of home land security policy), though we never saw either and were in contact with them on the radio to clear up the misunderstanding.
We are down to 1 week left to leave Switzerland, Rae Ann has everything well organized so should be smooth, though no doubt a fair bit of work.

April 07, 2008

The Spice of Life

We thought we had our car sold, an important step along the way of getting rid of all of our land based possessions. We got a good price a little too good. The buyer wanted to take it to Russia for his in-laws.

We missed the warning signs. So in a version of the well tread Nigerian lottery/money scams, we received an "international check", all very colorful with two well know international banks listed, dully made out to us for the price of the car plus just a little more. We promptly deposited. We waited. We checked with our bank. We waited.

Meanwhile, not minutes after we confirmed that we had received the check, an associate of the buyer was after us for the difference as this money needed to be sent via Western Union as soon as possible to cover the costs of him coming to pick up the car. A while later we received yet another urgent message that importation was a long legal process and that the lawyers fees needed to be paid. Again asking us to please send the excess funds.

To many times this is where the story goes from bad to worse, the first excess cash is sent back, then just a bit more, which we would get back as soon as the buyer can free up his funds.

Wisely we never wavered from saying - "no car, no money, no nothing" until the check clears. Needless to say at this point the check never cleared, it was counterfeit.

Again we have a car for sale, with only a few weeks left. We have also learned a very good lesson - namely watch the warning signs. So to all those that will follow in our wake - if ever approached by someone who is buying something of significance for their in-laws - you know it is a scam.

March 29, 2008

She Floats


Well little worry that she would not. So with early April Nikita will be commissioned including rigging and last delivery items checked off, such as engine operation. We expect to be in CT by late April to begin provisioning and moving aboard. While time flies it also seems so far away yet to our departure.
On another note, and while I am the first one to admit having been bored reading of the preparation phase on the various blogs and websites that I have lived vicariously through over the years, there is a certain tension and stress that we are now experiencing that gives me new perspective and appreciation. The last two weeks have been dominated by the resignation from my current job. Very difficult to explain to co-workers and bosses as frankly I have no reason to leave - a good company, good people and very interesting work. I have been fortunate professionally but as well worked at my career will full support of my family for 15 years. It is very unsettling to say the least to "give" it up. It also rings with an odd sense of permanence that in fact is not real as no doubt after our cruise I will be back to work in some capacity.
So we continue to move through the unwinding of shore side life and getting ever closer to a floating one.

February 23, 2008

Moving a Little Early?

Well something I will not live down for a few months anyway. Rae Ann had been preparing a listing of our household effects that we wished to sell. I suggested that she begin posting these last week, to which she responded "but we are not moving until April", to which I wisely responded "ah but it will take a while to move all of this junk". This was Wednesday the 20th of February - today is Saturday the 23rd........

We are without living room furniture and most of our bedroom furniture. Anything else left has been reserved for pickup at any time. It will be sparce living until April.

Remote Posting

This is a quick test to post to our blog from our Airmail email account.

February 16, 2008

A First Viewing



On February 11th, I got to visit our boat in Essex. Commissioning is just getting under way with launching expected mid March, weather permitting. First impression was just overwhelming. Everything came together as we had hoped and she looked absolutely beautiful inside and out.



This picture is from the salon looking aft over the nav table into the aft cabin. For additional pictures please use this weblinkhttp://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=210581713/a=31055222_31055222/t_=31055222

February 02, 2008

Essex, CT - Arrived

Short and sweet. Our boat has arrived in the U.S. via New York/New Jersey harbor and has been trucked to Essex, CT, where we will have her commissioned. We also look back on the month of January having moved reasonably through our list of to-do's. In mid February we will go to NY to see our finished boat for the first time, dragging along a load of extremely important boat supplies, aka junk.

We appreciate the comments being made, please keep them coming. As to the question of drag, for us it was the trade off of being able to generate all the energy we need while on passage (which the Duo-Gen will do, unlike its wind mode where output is much less) and a slightly slower passage time. We have, over the years, enjoyed being able to generate energy from alternative sources (solar on our last boat) and have always tried to minimize our engine running time. We think for on passage energy generation the Duo-Gen seems top of heap. So I think there is no right answer only a matter of personal choice and compromise.

January 12, 2008

Drouges & Energy

The last two pieces of major equipment - at least that we were deciding upon - were a drouge or parachute anchor and alternative charging for our batteries.

Drouge - There is actually a fairly significant amount of technical research available on the subject both in terms of alternatives (drouge or parachute anchor) as well as design. Reported actual experience with any particular storm solution though is not robust in depth - which really is a good thing - since the point is to avoid storms altogether anyway. The first thing we noted is that modern underbody designs tend to do better with active rather than passive approaches. As the HR 40 is modern in design, we elected to go with a drouge. In terms of design we selected to have a Jordon Series Drouge made for us by Ace Sailmakers (http://www.acesails.com/). The multi cone design made intuitive logic verses a single drag device given the risk of lifting a single drag device from the water or fouling it. After some inquiry, while no guarantee, we believe the construction of the HR will allow for attachment of the drouge bridle to the stern cleats.

DuoGen - Again with some research as well as first hand experience (solar panels on our previous boat) we elected to go with the DuoGen (www.duogen.com) for electricity generation. Our highest consumption will be while underway, as we have always been heavy users of our electronic gadgets. The DuoGen seems to be a clear best in class for a towing generator solution. The wind mode though is likely to be less than satisfactory, but this seems the plague of all wind generators as one tries to anchor in a protected spot anyway. We always found that our solar panels delivered much less than rated, even though of high quality, were extreme space consumers to get "enough", thus ultimately believe that an improvement in solar cell technology is required before they become fully practical for a small cruising boat. It is likely that we will ultimately need something more for charging while at anchor, but we will tackle that once we know more precisely the size of the shortfall with the current solutions.

The New Year - Excitement & Acceleration

The New Year ushers in our planned departure date (May 2008) and a long list of things to do prior to departure. First things first though, our boat shipped from Sweden on January 7th to the east coast of the U.S., specifically Essex CT, where we will take delivery and commission her.

In response to a question we received: Our planned itinerary will be to test boat and systems and provision in April and begin sailing down east towards Maine in mid May returning in late summer down the ICW (at least parts where we can sneak our 6.5 foot draft) and then on to the Bahamas’. Whether we continue farther south through the Caribbean or come back to the U.S. for the hurricane season of 2009 depends on how we adjust and progress with our new life. Will provide more details on our itinerary as we get closer.

The focus now is in one word logistics, with the boat, other than commissioning and system testing very much ready to go, we turn our attention to; 1) getting misc gear to the boat, some stored in CT, some with us in Switzerland and some with friends and family 2) selling or giving away our possessions including car and furniture in Switzerland 3) moving onto and provisioning the boat. At this point it all feels manageable and we do a little each week to keep going forward. I am sure we begin to the feel the pinch in March or so as we are an ocean away from our boat but yet still trying to get "ready".